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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.